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A Charming Combination Of Land And Sea
Baga,
10-km west of Mapusa, is basically an extension of
Calangute;
even the locals are unable to decide where ends and the other begin. Lying
in the lee of a rocky, wooded headland, the only difference between this
far northern end of the beach and its more congested centre is that the
scenery here is marginally more varied and picturesque.
A small river flows into the sea at the top of the village, below a broad
spur of soft white sand, from where a dirt track strikes across an expanse
of paddy fields towards
Anjuna.
The old red tiled fishers houses behind the dunes have long been swamped
by gaudily lit bars, Tandoori terrace restaurants and handicraft shops,
but one doesn't feel quite so hemmed in as at
Calangute.
PLACES TO STAYThe rough-and-ready places dotted around the fishing village usually have space for accommodation. Reasonable budget houses and rooms for rent are also available on the quieter north side of the river.
LEISUREEATING OUT
Baga has arguably the best range of restaurants in
Goa, from standard
beach
shacks to swish pizzerias and terrace cafes serving real espresso
coffee. Because of the stiff competition, prices are generally reasonable
and the quality of cooking high. For a splurge, splash out on a candlelit
dinner at J & A's Riverside Trattoria, or a traditional Goan meal at
the eccentric Casa Portuguesa.
NIGHTLIFE
Thanks to the droves of predominantly British package tourists who stay
here, Baga's nightlife is the liveliest in the area. Most of the revellers
end up at Tito's, which has the only dance floor and hefty sound system
outside a big hotel for miles. Women are allowed in for free; "unaccompanied"
men and couples have to pay.