|
|
A Topping On Tourist Pie
A mere 45 minute bus ride up the coast from the capital, Calangute is
Goa's busiest and most
commercialized resort, and the flagship of the state government's bid for
a bigger slice of India's package-tourist pie. In the 1970s and early
1980s, this once peaceful fishing Village epitomized Goa's reputation as a
haven for hedonistic hippies.
The Town And The Beach
The road from the town to the beach is lined with Kashmiri-run handicraft
boutiques and Tibetan stalls selling Himalayan curios and jewellery. The
quality of the goods - mainly Rajasthani, Gujarati and Karnatakan textiles
- is generally high. Haggle hard and don't be afraid to walk away from a
heavy sales pitch - the same stuff crops up every Wednesday at
Anjuna's flea
market.
The beach itself is nothing special, with steeply shelving sand, but is
more than large enough to accommodate the huge numbers of high-season
visitors.
To escape the hawkers, head fifteen minutes or so south of the main
beachfront area, towards the rows of olf wooden boats moored below the
dunes. In this virtually hawker-free zone, one'll only come across teams
of villagers hauling in hand nets at high tide or fishermen fixing their
tack under bamboo sun shakes.
HOW
TO GET THERE Road: Buses from Mapusa and Panjim pull in at the small bus stand cum Market Square in the centre of Calangute. Some continue to Baga, stopping at the crossroads behind the beach en route. Get off here if one can, as it's closer to most of the hotels.
PLACES TO STAYCalangute is chock-full of places to stay. Demand only
outstrips supply in the
Christmas
- New Year high season, and at
Diwali.
Most of the inexpensive accommodation consists of small rooms in family
homes, or in concrete annexes tacked onto the backs of houses. The top
hotels are nearly all gleaming white, exclusive villa complexes with
pools, and direct beach access.
EATING OUT
Calangute's bars and restaurants are mainly grouped around the entrance
to the beach and along the Baga road. As with most Goan resorts, the
accent is firmly on seafood, though many places tack on a few token
vegetarian dishes. Western breakfasts also feature prominently.
Nightlife In Calangute Beach
Thanks to repeated crackdowns by the Goan police on parties and loud
music, Calangute's nightlife is surprisingly tame. All but a handful of
the
bars
wind up by 10.00 pm. One notable exception is Tito's at the
Baga
end of the beach, which stays open until 11.00 pm off-season and into the
small hours in late December and January.
Unfortunately, the only other places that consistently stay open through
the night are a couple of dull hippy hang-outs in the woods to the south
of the beach road; Pete's Bar, a perennial favourite next door to Angela
P. Fernandes, is generally the most lively, offering affordable drinks,
backgammon sets and relentless reggae. Further afield, Bob's Inn, between
Calangute and
Candolim,
is another popular bar, famed less for its court around a large table in
the front bar.
USEFUL
INFORMATIONBikes On Rent: Motorcycle taxis hang around the
little sandy square behind GTDC's tourist resort, next to the steps that
drop down to the beachfront. Ask around here if one wants to rent a
motorcycle. Rates are standard; the nearest filling station is five
minutes' walk from the beach, back towards the market on the right-hand
side of the main road. Bicycles are also widely available for rent.
Exchange: There's a State Bank Of India on the main street, but
the best place to change money and Travellers Cheques is Wall Street
finances, opposite the petrol pump and in the
shopping complex
on the beachfront. If they are closed, try the fast and friendly ENEM
finances in
Baga.
For visa encashments, go to The Bank Of Baroda, just north of the temple
and market area; a flat commission fee is levied on all visa withdrawls.
A Taste Of Indian Heritage
Finally, don't miss the chance to sample some real Indian culture while
you are in Calangute. The Ekrkar Art Gallery, in Gaura Vaddo, at the south
end of town, hosts evenings of classical
music
and dance every
Tuesday and complete with incense and evocative candlelight. The recitals,
performed by students and teachers from Panjim's Kala Academy, are kept
comfortably short for the benefit of Western visitors, and are preceded by
a short introductory talk. Tickets are available in advance or at the
door.
Note: Wherever one goes, though, remember that Calangute's no
nudism rule is for real and enforced by special police patrols; this
includes topless bathing. 